So, lacking anything between the 1810′s and the 1840′s naturally, I
have become obsessed with the 1830′s!! So of course, when I found this
perfect fabric on discount at a high-end quilt shop, it just spoke to me
about being 1830′s. Yes, that’s right, the huge sleeves, the low
necklines, the pleats, the piping on every seam, the box pleated skirts,
and (UGH) back-closing bodices. Yes. It’s the decade of ridiculousness
and we’re not even to the bonnets, yet…
Well, I already had a corset that would work, so the first thing to
start on was the corded petticoat that would support the skirts and
provide loft. Well, 3 hours into sewing tiny cords in between layers of
muslin with no added stiffness apparent, I was a bit discouraged. But,
12 hours and good starching later, I was much pleased!! Though, I think I
will try to convince a weaver to make some on a loom next time!
Next was the bonnet. One of those awful Poke Bonnets. Using pattern
paper and some scissors, turns out the first try was the best, so we
went with that. I didn’t want it to be TOO big and awkward. Just enough
to be the early ’30′s. The MET’s collection also helped a great deal. I
ordered a beige china silk to cover it. I had envisioned lots of
flowers, ribbon and even a feather or two, but a simple spray of orange
ribbon flowers is all that’s there for now. I’m still looking for the
right feathers. It had to go with the green veil of course.
The next thing to do was the dress. It took several mock-ups to get
the sleeves just right, and since I had such limited fabric (only about 5
1/2 yards) it was crucial to get it right. The skirt was two and a half
fabric widths (probably about 105 inches full) but that seems to be in
keeping with primary sources. The hard part was fitting a bodice on
yourself that closes in the back! The trick was to finish the back, then
drape the front on a lining piece. Sew the side and shoulder seams
together and then use the center front seam to do the fitting with. I
was lucky, all my pleating lined up really well. I also was puzzled by
the lack of darts on originals, so I put the front pieces on the bias
and that works great! There’s piping on EVERY seam, so I was forever at
that. But I think it came out well. A very flattering neckline, and I
don’t think the sleeves need supports underneath (one yard in each
sleeve!)
I then made a little chemisette and cap by hand while watching the Jane Austin marathon that was on during the Superbowl.
The next 30′s project is a whitework pelerine to go over the low
neckline. It’s debut will be at the MAALHFAM conference at GCVM in
March.
